Impressive views of mountain Ingushetia!
A unique phenomenon of Ingush material culture are residential towers, which, according to some researchers, arose from cyclopean buildings. Residential towers of the Ingush were called g1ala, and they were the most common buildings in mountainous Ingushetia. They were used as housing in modern times, up to the eviction of people. In appearance, they are different from battle towers. The construction of residential towers dates back to the XII century. The stone of the residential towers is made on lime. The secret of the solution with which the masonry was made has not yet been disclosed. Usually these buildings consist of two or three floors, they were from 10 to 12 meters high.
The first illustrations of the Ingush and their tower buildings appeared in the XIX century. The first collections of photographs of Ingush belong to D. A. Nikitin, N. K. Zeidlitz, Caucasian Y. Y. Karpov. They all traveled to the Caucasus at different times. Y.Y. Karpov visited Ingushetia, in the mountain villages of Dzhirakh, Erzi, Lyazhgi, Olgetti, Beini, Pui, Mushichi and climbed Table Mountain to capture the sanctuary of Myatseli. About the activities of these researchers in his work writes M. Albogachieva.
The presented collection includes photographs of military and residential towers, views of mountainous terrain, landscapes, in the amount of 82 photos taken in the mountainous part of Ingushetia, 72 photos shot in Chechnya, and 14 photos in Georgia. For us, photographs of architectural structures of mountain Ingushetia, taken in Dzherakh, Lezhgi, Erzi, Olgetti, Beini, Puy, Mushichi, where Y. Karpov managed to capture all types of ancient architectural structures of mountain Ingushetia, are of great interest.
In his dissertation work, S.D. Sulimenko gave a typology of tower structures, that is, showed their classification. He writes that residential-family towers are the most archaic type of tower structures. Until the XVIII century and even later, residential towers represented an architectural expression of the mythological syncretism of life, all kinds of activities were carried out (or could be carried out) in residential towers: residential, economic, defense, sacred.
Recently, interest in tower complexes, to the secrets of their construction has increased, which allows people interested to turn to various sources that allow them to consider the architectural details of Ingush architecture.
Tower buildings made of stone were reliable protection from enemies, were more durable than wooden buildings. The Ingush said, “He who lives in a tower is warm, and it is cold for him who does not have his own family tower.”
In the center of the residential tower there was always a four-sided pillar. Constructed of very large stones, rectangular in plan, slightly tapering up for stability, residential towers could also be used as fortresses.
Over time, the higher the residential tower was built, the already it became, which was due to the need to give the tower greater stability. If necessary, and residential towers, played the role of combat, they were adapted for defense. In many residential towers there are loopholes designed for the introduction of combat.
On the first floor of the residential towers, which served mainly as a barn, there were no windows, on the second floor there were tenants.
In numerous niches located in the thickness of the wall, household utensils were stored. Part of the housing occupied the bunks in the form of a wide platform. On the pegs, driven between the stones, hung weapons - bows, guns, sabers.
The collection of Yuri Karpov depicts residential towers, which have three floors and, as a rule, a rectangular base. The dimensions of the towers at the base are 6-15 × 4-9 m. The height of the buildings ranges from 8 to 12 m, the roof is flat, earthen. Entrance to the building through the door of the lower floor. Communication with subsequent floors is carried out with the help of a ladder through a hole in one of the corners of the interior. In the middle of all the buildings there was a stone pillar, which was a support for inter-storey log floors. The purpose of the defense of the tower served special battle crevices of the walls of the second and third floors, and sometimes stones laid in rows on the roof. Each floor had a clearly defined function. The first served as a barn, there were stored stocks of grain, livestock feed, tools and means of transportation. The second floor was residential, the third was intended for guests. In the center of the dwelling there was a hearth sacred to each mountaineer, above it a boiler for cooking was hung on a focal chain.”
In winter, the towers were heated with round fireplaces. Even in the summer they did not warm up, they remained cool.
On the outside of the residential tower at the ground floor level, there were two protruding stones on the wall, for which horses were tied. It was a horsetail.
Residential towers of different preservation are located in all villages of mountain Ingushetia. More preserved residential towers are located in the following mountain villages: Erzi, Egikal, Beini, Tsori, Harpe, Furtog, Lyazhgi, Salgi, Lyalakh, etc.
In many dilapidated residential towers, four-sided pillars with stone pillows that stood in the middle of the tower, designed to support the beams of the floors, were preserved. For example, well-preserved support pillars can be observed in residential towers – Harpe, Zori, etc.
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The Vovnushki Tower Complex is the most famous in Ingushetia and Russia.
Translated from Ingush Vonushki means “place of battle towers”. They vividly illustrate the concept of “firm”: huge stone structures, firmly standing on a rocky base. The approaches to the towers and residential extensions were blocked by powerful fortress walls, which were initially perceived as a natural part of the mountain.
Vonushki is a recognized masterpiece of medieval tower architecture, and a subject of special pride of the Ingush. Now it is difficult to imagine how much effort the builders of Vonushki had to make to create a four-storey complex in such a difficult place for construction, which was also chosen not by chance - this is the junction point of mountain gorges. In ancient times, one of the sections of the legendary Silk Road passed here.
Tower settlement Egikal of mountain Ingushetia.
One of the largest, most visited, as well as one of the most recognizable and popular tower complexes of mountain Ingushetia.
Located on the southern slope of Mount C1ei Loam, 2 km from the Assa River.
Egikal has more than a hundred different types of buildings: combat, semi-combat, residential towers, sanctuaries, sielings, mausoleums, crypts - round, tower-like, ground and underground.
The history of the complex goes deep into the centuries.
It is under state protection.
Tower complex "Furtoug", mountain Ingushetia (the tower where the great Russian chemist D. I. Mendeleev stayed).
At the end of the twentieth century in the mountains of Ingushetia visited a geological expedition led by D. I. Mendeleev - the great Russian chemist, author of fundamental research in chemistry, physics, chemical technology of oil and explosives.
The scientist was amazed by the beauty of the Caucasus and noted that the North Caucasus is not inferior to the mountainous Altai and Urals in terms of the richness of natural resources.
International Mountain Day is celebrated annually on January 11. The holiday was established by a UN General Assembly resolution in 2003.
The purpose of this day is not to congratulate all those involved, but to preserve the natural wealth of the world, support the indigenous people of mountainous areas, raise awareness of the problems and importance of mountain ranges.
According to the United Nations, about 15 percent of humanity lives in the mountains. About 50% of all biodiversity is there. About half of humanity depends on the various resources that mountains provide. The more dangerous are climate change, land degradation and any other negative changes in these areas.
The mountains of Ingushetia are pristine and special beauty. No matter where we are, there are amazing mountains. The mountain peaks are associated with the most beautiful Ingush traditions, and on their slopes there are ancient towers and religious monuments.
The highest mountain peak in Ingushetia is Mount Shoan. Its name comes from the Ingush word "sha" - glacier, as well as Tsei Loam and Tsoreilam.
A special place and reverence in the republic is occupied by legends, Table Mountain, about 3000 m above sea level, which, in addition to the famous monuments located on the top, contains a lot of secrets and mysteries on its slopes.
Tower architecture of Ingushetia in the works of researchers and scientists.
In the middle of the XVIII century, the Georgian historian Vakhushti Bagrationi, visiting hard-to-reach mountainous areas, noted that the Ingush “know how to build from stone on lime and build houses, towers and fortifications from them.”
In the XVIII-early-XIX centuries. there are works of a research nature. Ethnographic studies that appeared during this period are closely related to the study of stone architecture monuments of the Ingush and other peoples of the Caucasus.
In scientific expeditions in the North Caucasus, such scientists as P.S. Pallas, G.Y. Klaprot, I.L. Guldenstedt, F. Parrot, M. Engelgart took an active part, who later turned to the problem under study.
At the beginning of the XX century the Soviet stage of studying monuments of mountain Ingushetia began and this period was represented by the works of A.F. Goldstein, L.P. Semenov, I.P. Shcheblykin, E.I. Krupnov, V.P. Kobychev, A.I. Robakidze, M.M. Basorkin, etc.
In 1925-1932 , archaeological and ethnographic expeditions in the mountains of Ingushetia were conducted by scientist L.P. Semenov. In his reports he wrote: "In the Ingush monuments reflected the change of three religions, successively replacing one another: pagan (the oldest), Christian (which began to penetrate the XII century), Muslim (which penetrated in the XVII century).
A significant role in the study of monuments of archaeology of mountain Ingushetia was played by E. I. Krupnov under the leadership of whom the archaeological expeditions of the State Historical Museum (GIM) were carried out in Ingushetia. His first scientific works on ancient and medieval Ingushetia were published in GIM.
A general description of military and residential towers, castle structures, temples, crypts and sanctuaries is given by the artist-ethnographer I.P. Shcheblykin, who participated in expeditions to mountain Ingushetia together with L.P. Semenov.
At the present stage of study, in parallel with the studies of M. Muzhukhoev, D.Y. Chakhkiev, the works of scientists appeared - R. Munchayev, V.I. Markovin, V.B. Vinogradov, V.H. Tmenov, I.M. Miziev and many others.
Among these studies, it is worth noting the monograph by V.I. Markovin, which describes the traditional architecture of Ingushetia and other regions of the North Caucasus.
Cyclopean structures of mountain Ingushetia, dating of a number of settlements in the mountains, rooted in the III thousand BC, and much more have important scientific significance.
The study of the monuments of mountain Ingushetia gives us a certain idea of the economic and social differentiation of society. These monuments testify to ties with other peoples of the Caucasus.
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This year, together with the partners of the National Objects and Security Management System “Territory”, joint research was carried out on cave-type rock structures located on the southern slope of the Stolovaya Mountain.
As a result of the works, 9 rock structures were located, their measurements were taken, all structural features of the premises were noted, and they were photographed.
All of them will be put on the state record.
The Stolovaya Mountain, as we noted earlier, holds many mysteries.
Today, Mukhyamad-Basir Iliev, an employee of the Jeyrakh-Assin Museum-Reserve, held a preventive talk on careful attitude to the republic's historical and cultural monuments with pupils of the Guli village school.
The event was held in order to protect and preserve the historical and cultural heritage of the region, as well as moral and moral education of the younger generation.
A meeting was held in the museum-reserve to summarize the results of the outgoing year. The participants of the event recalled the most significant and memorable events of this period.
Some types of work due to seasonality are not available in winter, so in the fall-winter period, inspectors of the museum-reserve familiarize schoolchildren with the monuments of mountainous Ingushetia, conduct preventive talks about careful attitude to them, give an idea of their importance for history and culture.
During this year, inspection visits were made to the tower complexes of Tsori, Oaseg, Old Evli, Kashtym, Lyazhgi, Meller, Middle Ozdig, Upper Guli and Upper Pui, Musiyk'ongikoate, Furtoug, Garak, Erzi, New Evli, Gappi, Phyamet, Metskhal, Olgeti, Doshkhakle, Salgi, B1arakh, Gul, Shoane, Besht, Khyarp, Dukhyargisht, Ankoate, Khyani, etc. to monitor the technical condition of cultural heritage objects. Based on the visits made, visual changes in the structures were photographed and technical condition certificates were drawn up.
Within the framework of the work plan for the supervision of restoration, conservation and anti-accident works on the preservation of historical and architectural objects on the territory of the museum-reserve, inspection visits were made to the tower complexes of Nizhny Pui, Keli, Morch, Khyamishki, Eban, Doshkhakle, Tumgi where restoration works are underway.
Saturdays were held at a number of complexes to clean up adjacent territories, and at the Furtaugh tower complex sanitary measures were taken to demolish illegal outbuildings, in particular, a summer outbuilding located in the protection zone of the complex was dismantled.
One of the subbotniks was held on April 18, timed to coincide with the International Day of Monuments and Historic Sites, as a result of which a tributary of the Assa River was cleaned.
Very important and timely were the activities carried out to clean the perimeter of the core mausoleum of the Tovhanti tower estate from spontaneous growth, which posed a potential threat to the integrity of the historical site. Armed with saws and axes, the boys cut down bushes and unwanted vegetation, saving the monument from damage and increasing its attractiveness to visitors.
Together with specialists from ACM Group, work was carried out to fix and register cultural heritage objects at the Govzt, Khyarp, Morch, Niy, Khamkhi, Tori, Upper Barkhane, Lower Barkhane, Salgi, and Khairakh tower complexes.
As it is known, inventory of OKN is one of the necessary components of the comprehensive study of monuments, it is carried out in order to preserve and popularize objects of cultural heritage, as well as to ensure their integrity.
At the beginning of the year an agreement was reached on cooperation with the National System of Object Management and Security “Territory”, within the framework of which a unified information base of cultural heritage objects of the republic will be available - in order to get all the necessary information about the area and a landmark it will be enough to scan the personal code of the object.
Also, as part of the introduction of this system on the territory of the museum-reserve, for the first time joint research was conducted on unrecorded cave-type rock structures located on the southern slope of Table Mountain in the Jeyrakhsky district.
Thanks to these studies, the rock structures will be put on the state register and given a legal status. These works will be continued next year.
During this year, an inspection trip was also made to the Sunzhensky district, to the tower complexes located on the bank of the Fortanga River, as well as to the little-known and rarely visited tower complexes of Agutyr, Kasheti, Gvezi, and Oaseg.
Within the framework of the work plan for the identification and accounting of previously unrecorded architectural monuments, a previously unknown underground structure was discovered on the territory of the Tsori tower settlement, 2 river mills and 4 underground crypts were noted on the territory of the Furtoug complex. It was put on the account pillar-shaped sanctuary-ts1uv, located southeast of the tower complex Lower Pui, in Novy Evli was found not accounted underground crypt, unknown underground structures were found in Upper Pui, pillar-shaped sanctuary-sieling was noted in Besht, etc.
The most interesting finds were a “calendar” stone, on which two rows of horizontal notches were carved parallel to each other, discovered on the territory of the Erzi complex and a unique architectural structure attached to a mountain ridge, discovered on Mount Guirahye, 3 km away from the Guli tower complex.
Participated in the following events:
on the occasion of the completion of the restoration work of the Gouste Tower Complex, which restored the historic ensemble of three towers;
climbing the Table Mountain;
in the International Scientific and Practical Conference “Caucasus at the Junction of Europe and Asia: Problems of Preservation of Historical and Cultural Heritage and Restoration of Unique Objects in the North Caucasus Federal District”, which was held in Grozny, Chechen Republic on July 21-23, 2024;
in the shooting of a documentary film in the mountains of Ingushetia as part of the project of the Federal Agency for Nationalities “Audiovisual Ethno-Encyclopedia”, which presents a series of documentaries about ethnic cultures living in Russia;
visited the photo exhibition of the researcher-archivist B. Gazikov, where photo materials of ancient Ingush towers and rural settlements from the funds of the State Archive of the Russian Federation and the State Russian Museum of St. Petersburg were presented;
in the traditional “Jeyrakh Marathon” race, which this year was held as part of the official events dedicated to the 100th anniversary of the Republic of Ingushetia, etc.
Among the most significant events of the outgoing year, in our opinion, it is worth highlighting the participation in the interregional scientific-practical conference “National-State Formations in Russia: History and Modernity”, which was held within the framework of the Ingushetian Institute of Humanities named after Ch. Akhriev. This conference was timed to the 100th anniversary of the Republic of Ingushetia and became a bright event for all its participants.
A.A. Sampiev, acting director of the Jeirakh-Assin State Historical, Architectural and Natural Museum-Reserve, made a scientific report on the activities, successes and problems of the Jeirakh-Assin State Historical, Architectural and Natural Museum-Reserve.
A.A. Sampiev's speech caused a lively discussion among those present, all participants noted the great theoretical and practical significance of the presented report.
Our participation in this event was possible due to the bilateral agreement between the IngNII of Humanities named after Ch. Akhriev and the Museum-Reserve on cooperation between the parties. Also within the framework of this agreement, the staff of the institution made an expedition to the temple “Tkhaba-Yerdy” in order to conduct research. The subject of the research is iconography, decoration of the temple and its interpretation.
And the second memorable significant event, not only for the staff of our institution, but for all residents of the republic, is the victory of our project “Development of the Jeirakh-Assinsk Museum-Reserve” in the nomination of tourism project within the Days of Regional Development “Space of the Future” at the exhibition “Russia”, which was held in Moscow from May 21 to July 3, 2024.
The victory of our project became possible thanks to the support of the residents of the republic, who actively voted for it and its presentation at a high professional level by Acting Director A. Sampiev. We would like to take this opportunity to express our sincere gratitude to everyone who participated in the project!
Each completed work at any stage is new knowledge, important discoveries, personal growth and invaluable experience for our employees.
At the end of his speech, A. Sampiev congratulated everyone on the coming New Year, thanked for the work done and expressed his hope to meet next year in the same team, in good spirits and ready to work!
December 27, 2024 Acting Director of the Jeirakh-Assin Museum-Reserve Akhmed-Khan Sampiev took part in a meeting of the Border Commission under the Head of the Republic of Ingushetia in Magas.
The participants of the meeting discussed issues related to the possibility of placing information stands at the railway station of the Republic of Ingushetia, at the international airport “Magas” named after S. S. Oskanov and at the bus station of the city of Nazran on the rules of the border regime operating on the territory of the Jeyrakhsky district, the order of issuing passes and permits for economic activities.
It is noted that the joint work of the Border Department and the Government of the region to raise awareness of the population and guests of the Jeyrakhsky district about the current border regime has led to more than twofold reduction of detected violations.
“The increase in tourist traffic makes it necessary to improve the system of informing tourists. Arriving guests, especially on the threshold of the active tourist season, it is necessary to explain the rules of the border regime and the consequences of their non-compliance. This will minimize cases of unintentional offenses”, - said Prime Minister Vladimir Slastenin.
The Shoan Tower Complex is located in the Jeirakh district on steep mountain slopes in the valley of the Armkhi River, 3 km from Olget. It consists of two separate (but interrelated) parts, between which the river flows.
In the first part there is already a dilapidated five-storey battle tower and 7 residential tower structures with a defensive wall, among which there was an arms workshop, where high-quality samples were made, and in the second - the remains of 4 residential towers, barrier walls and a Muslim cemetery, where the last priest of the ancient Ingush religion - Elmarz-Haji Hautiyev is buried.
At the top of the hill above the second complex stretches the "City of the Dead" ("Mokhde") - one of the largest necropolises of mountain Ingushetia, dating from the XIII-XV centuries, and consisting of more than 250 underground and semi-underground collective crypt tombs. Some crypts are completely hidden underground, others have a vault and a hole. Inside the crypts were arranged wooden shelves or stone boxes. About 60 tombs were studied by archaeologists, they were found clay jugs, gold horde coins, iron and bronze bracelets, silver coins of the Umayyad caliph Mervan II and other items. In the area of the Shoan tower complex, two temples-sanctuaries of Bolam Dyala and Tusholi were previously located, as well as two pillar-shaped sanctuaries, now they are destroyed.
The Shoan Tower complex is part of the Dzheyrah-Assin State Historical, Architectural and Natural Museum-Reserve and is an identified object of cultural heritage protected by the state.